A Croissant Quest in Paris

With the flavor of Cherrier’s croissant still vivid in my mind, I am excited to compare it to that of Dominique Saibron, a long-established artisan who shares many of Cherrier’s baking beliefs. I climb back onto my bike and cycle out to the other side of the city—through the Marais, the Latin Quarter, and Montparnasse—until I reach the large and bustling Place d’Alésia where Saibron’s bakery stands.

To this seasoned craftsman, perfecting the croissant is important not just for its own sake, but because the quality of this iconic product reflects directly on the rest of the product range: get customers hooked on your croissant, an affordable treat usually priced between 1 and 1.60 euros, and they’ll confidently spend a dozen more when it’s time to buy a seasonal fruit tart for Sunday lunch with the in-laws.

But for now, taking advantage of the seating area that Saibron has set up at the back of his bakery, it is his croissant I admire. I notice the well-caramelized, highly flavorful underbelly that comes from baking it in the same stone-floor oven that’s used for breads, and I understand why Saibron sees it as a flagship item.

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